Freezing in Florida -- Experiencing "Ice" at the Gaylord Palms Orlando

I'd often heard about "ICE," the annual display of hand-carved frozen sculptures that takes place at the Gaylord Palms in Kissimmee, Florida near all the Orlando Disney World attractions. (There are also similar shows at other Gaylord hotels.) Last year towards the end of the season there, I decided to experience it first hand.

From the Jungle of Gaylord's Everglades to the Artic "ICE"

It was an early somewhat crisp Sunday morning -- 60 degrees outside when we embarked with some trepidation into the frozen wilderness of "ICE" at 9 degrees -- remember I am a Floridian, anything under 50 is freezing. The Gaylord Palms Hotel is a somewhat daunting place to begin with -- a theme park inside a hotel with all kinds of funky Florida themes that take you through the swamps of the Everglades to Key West, to the walled Spanish look of St. Augustine. But even the dragon pool can't come close to the main attraction here come every November --- "ICE."

Once we had bought our tickets, we were escorted into a room where all sizes of very padded winter coats were provided.  (We had come somewhat prepared for this -- and didn't wear sandals for instance and wore long pants.) But as we were to soon find out, we would need those ugly winter parkas.

We heeded all the warnings and I covered my camera lens up with my parka so that my camera wouldn't give out between photos.  Then we trudged into the gallery with about 50 or so others... who had been ticketed for the same entry time as we had.

The exhibition itself is about 18,000 square-feet of frosty characters and settings, that are carved each year by a team of artisans from Harbin, China.  Harbin is world-famous for its annual Ice and Snow Festival where more than 2,000 sculptors annually care a 100-acre walk through an ice park. Ice Lantern Festivals can be traced back as far as the late Ming and early Qing dynasties of Imperial China where 500 years ago hunters created ice lanterns to help guide themselves home.

 

We walked through a huge ice tunnel into a vast frozen world. And I have to admit I was truly awed by the intricate carvings of bears, sheep, angels, reindeer and more. Most impressive were the huge ice-carved manger and carousel. And, of course, I had to try the ice slide -- hey I had the parka to protect me.

This year's "ICE" at the Gaylord Palms opens tomorrow. The Theme for 2010 is "Twas the Night Before Christmas" And if you decide to go, even if you don't stay at the Gaylord, check out the hotel, it is unique! And be sure to bring hats, gloves and dress warm--it's cold even in Florida. For more information, or to purchase your tickets by phone, call (407) 586-4423.

Marveling at the history, geology and music of Red Rocks Amphitheatre

Wandering up the winding road from Denver, you first catch a glimpse of the deep red sandstone rock formations  in the distance.   This is an awesome sight in its own right, but when you drive under a sandstone arch and arrive at the geologically formed amphitheatre, unique in all the world, you are spellbound by the grandeur of it.

The amphitheatre, now known as Red Rocks and originally called the Garden of Angels, and no wonder, consists of two, three hundred-foot monoliths (Ship Rock and Creation Rock) and man-made seating that extends between them swooping down to the stage with a drop-dead gorgeous view of the City of Denver below.

It was in the early 1900's, that “Renaissance Man,” John Brisben Walker(1), journalist, owner/editor of Cosmopolitan Magazine, automobile manufacturer, land developer, hotelier, and owner of property that included what is now Red Rocks, dreamed of having a performing venue at the natural amphitheatre with such perfect acoustics. He arranged for a famous opera singer(2) of the day to perform there, and when she pronounced it the best concert hall she had ever sang in, attention was drawn to what Walker labeled “The Garden of Titans.”

 Walker went on to produce a number of concerts between 1906 and 1910(3) on a temporary platform, but it wasn’t until much later than plans for a formal concert venue took hold.  The City of Denver purchased the area of Red Rocks from Walker for the price of $54,133 in 1927 during the depression. Timing was right. Work programs created to get the economy back on its feet at the time provided the labor for the project. The federally sponsored Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and the Work Projects Administration (WPA), were engaged to construct the amphitheatre based on Denver architect Burnham Hoyt’s design, maintaining the beauty of the original natural theatre. It was finally dedicated in 1941.

Since then outstanding performers from every era of music have performed here. The earliest notable rock and roll performance at Red Rocks was by The Beatles  in August, 1964 (some clips). During a five-year ban of rock music from the venue after 1000 unticketed fans, many unruly,  showed up at a Jethro Tull concert, Red Rocks focussed on easier listening  from John Denver, Sonny & Cher, The Carpenters, Pat Boone, Seals & Crofts, and Carole King. But over the years since Sting, Santana, Joe Cocker, U2 among other have had concerts at Red Rocks. More recently Barenaked Ladies, Tom Petty & the Heartbreakers, Zac Brown's Band and John Mayer have performed there.

The thought of going to a concert or an Easter morning service(4) here is mind-blowing. (Twitter friend Jason talks about this in one of his blogs: http://www.jasons-travels.com/my-colorado/red-rocks-amphitheatre.) But there’s more to Red Rocks than its concerts making it worth going there even in the off-season – for the gorgeous setting, to hike around and enjoy the magnificent vistas, to marvel at the incredible human engineering feat, to consider the geologic, entrepreneurial and musical history of the place. The Visitor Center features interactive educational displays, a short film documentary on the geologic and musical history, and a Performer's Hall of Fame.

(1) Ironically after years of investing in countless ventures, many of which earned him millions, Walker died penniless in 1931 at the age of 83.The ruins of Walker’s magnificent house are still visible along Walker’s Dream Trail on Mount Falcon.  More on Walker.
(2) Mary Garden was known as the Sarah Bernhardt of Opera.  She was a household name in the US in the early 1900s.  More information and photos. 
(3) The earliest documented performance at the amphitheater was the Grand Opening of the Garden of the Titans, on May 31, 1906. featuring Pietro Satriano and his 25-piece brass band.
(4) The first event at Red Rocks Amphitheatre was the Easter sunrise service in 1947.  The Easter Sunrise service is now the opening event every year. 

Tips for the Road Warrior: Going Back and Forth from Warm to Cold Climates

One of the difficulties in traveling frequently is the transitions from cold to warm climates and vice versa -- what to pack, what to wear etc.  I live in Florida and travel all over so I am frequently faced with this dilemma especially in these days of high security at airports -- shoe removal, coat removal etc., and extra charges for baggage etc.  What we globe trotters will do for the love of travel.

First off, when there is time and you don't have to cross oceans, you can drive.  Which I do, when I can, so I can bring whatever I need, and don't have to deal with the airport, airline hassles.  But in most cases, I don't have and you won't either the luxury of using personal transportation.   So here are some tips, I have found useful:

What to pack and not pack:

1.  Try and stick with one or two colors and some accent pieces.

2.  Limit shoes -- one pair for each type of weather/activity encounter --  boots, sneaks, dress shoes, sandals.  Wear the sandals to the hot place, boot type shoe to the cold place-- the kind that are easier to get out of.  See caveat on boots below.

3.  If you live in a warm climate, and you will be at your cold destination for a longer stay, consider buying some cheap heavier clothing at a Walmart-type place when you get to your destination so you don't have to lug as much -- I can usually get what I need to supplement what I have carted along for under $50.  (This goes for underwear too -- get rid of it when you leave).  This also holds true if you coming and going to the same cold destination for short stays.  Many hotels will hold some luggage for you if you return frequently.  Once you don't need the stuff you bought -- give it to the hotel maid or Goodwill. Or if you really must keep it, ship it home.

4.  Again If you know you will be coming and going from the same destination a number of times, find some way to leave things behind... at the dry cleaners for instance.  Pick it up when you return.  And/or  leave a bag with climate-related clothes at the hotel where you stay, many places will let frequent guests do this. (I buy a cheap piece of luggage under $20 for this purpose.)

5.  Use space saver vacuum bags to compress the bulkier items you have to bring -- like a heavy coat and sweater.

6. If you are heading to a colder climate, be sure you pack gloves, socks, scarf, hat and boots that will keep you warm enough for winter conditions. (If I know I am going to a place where there is likely to be snow I will bring a heavier boot in addition to wearing shoe-boots despite the added weight.)

7. Don't forget moisturizers -- especially if you are heading from a more humid climate to a dryer one -- you'll use more than you typically do.  Of course, you can always buy more at a local store so don't over do it.



What to Wear:

1.  Dress for the climate your heading for, just layer and dual purpose appropriately -- see below.

2.  Layer and dual purpose -- Wear a couple of layers, e.g. going north: thinner weight tee with long sleeves under a shirt, then another sweater, sweatshirt or jacket; going south: a tank top or short sleeved tee, with warmer light weight clothes on top.  You can then remove these and stuff them in your carry-on before getting off the flight.

3.  Try if at all possible to pack the bulkier, buttoned and zippered stuff, and if you have to wear a jacket or coat make it one that is lighter weight, easy to get off and on.   Dragging bulky coats through a plane when you also have carry-ons to deal with is a real nuisance, not to speak of getting yourself through security. (If I have to wear a coat to the airport, I take it off when I get there and stuff it in a bag to be checked -- I leave room in that suitcase for this purpose)

4.  Again wear shoes that are easy to remove.   (I wear slip on boots with a side zipper going to a cold climate, and sandals to the warmer.  I make the footwear change at the airport, if need be.)

The People of France -- Who Ever Said the French Were Unfriendly?

A Charming Small Park in Paris 

When discussing  our recent stay in France, people have too often said to me "but the French are so rude, unfriendly."  This is an unfortunate perception that has clung to the French for many Americans like those horrible adhesive labels you can't  remove from a recent purchase.  Too frequently those who have held this opinion in their minds and hearts have never been to France or visited only briefly on one of those tourists' jolts through Europe.

French Lady feeds birds near Notre Dame

As an example of their "rudeness" one fellow American related a story of how he was looking for the Opera in Paris, and asked someone on the street how to find it and he refused to answer.  I wondered. First, I noted how this fellow pronounced it "OP ER AH" with a strong midwestern accent.  Also, did he as many Americans tend to do, stand too close without any introduction in some basic "travel" French, and shout out his question.  Did it occur that the French person might have been frightened or rightfully perturbed by this approach? Wouldn't the same American  be equally taken back  if someone approached him on the street in the U.S. in an equally baffling way shouting in a foreign language?

I know it happened to me --  in France.  A large American woman not knowing who I was, or what language I spoke -- I don't tend to carry any clues with me and dress very inconspicuously -- came up to me, tapped me roughly on the shoulder, and  shouted a question at me in poor French.  I was so shaken by her approach that  by the time I composed myself she had walked away to trouble someone else.  Undoubtedly, I became part of the "rude" French.

Rene  Hotel Sainte-Pierre Saumur, France

Contrary to this, what we found, more so than ever on this trip, was that the French people are incredibly friendly and gracious.  I think there are a couple reasons for our experience.  One, we did take the time to think about our approach first in French..."bonjour, parlez-vous anglais" and no touching.... and softer voice.  The other has to do with a real  change we have noticed from years ago.... more French people especially in Paris speak at least some English and many younger French speak it very well.  This has gone along way to help improve communications and dissolve misunderstanding.

Kind Shopkeeper in Boulangerie in Paris

Bottom line, I can relate that we were greeted enthusiastically and treated very courteously by hoteliers like Rene above and the lovely young woman, Veronique below.   Rene, who I had exchanged emails with, exuberantly welcomed us outside the hotel and carried all our luggage personally into the hotel.  Several  French women took time to carefully redirect us when we were lost in one area of Paris or another.   Shopkeepers went out of their way to attempt conversations with me in my very awkward French.  Taxi drivers were polite and went over-the-top to point out attractions.   While there was the occasional gruffness or misunderstanding, where anywhere in the US doesn't that happen.  Overall, we felt welcomed and  longed to linger and certainly return again and hopefully again.

Veronique Hotel L'Addresse Paris

Please share your comments below.

Send Yourself a Postcard -- A Travel Tip

Years ago on a jaunt to Maui we took a snorkling trip with an activity group called Trilogy -- one of my favorite travel memories by the way.   Not only was the day's adventure well-organized and a total blast, the group extended the enjoyment of the day by capturing excellent video footage and selling this as an add-on, and something small but equally clever, they had each of the passengers  write themselves a Trilogy postcard from Maui which the group later mailed to their homes.  

I won't go into all the marketing benefits of this -- not my purpose here.  The point is the postcard was waiting for us when we returned home -- encoring instantly that incredible travel memory.   It was this postcard and my own mom's collection of postcards that I'd sent her from my many travels that comprised the beginnings of my own collection.  

Now where ever I go, I try to write myself a postcard from that place with the date.   Not only do I have a flush of memories hit me to distract me from bills and other less enjoyable mail, but I have a cheap souvenir which I add to my collection.   I keep the collection in a series of binders, which reside on a shelf under the TV in our family room for quick access -- along with photos, these postcards provide a quick review of all the places we've been.  

Savannah --- A Hint of Paris in the American South

Maybe it's that everywhere I go I look for Paris. Recently on a breeze through one of my favorite Southern cities, I was reminded of Paris by the charming squares, historic monuments and beautiful old buildings, embellished with wrought-iron gates and balustrades.

Savannah was established in 1733 and designed by General James E. Oglethorpe, the founder of Georgia, around 24 squares (22 which still exist) providing shady respites from a hot, humid climate.    I've visited here many times, and each time discover something unique and special in this City of lovely parks, history and wonderful southern cuisine.

Strolling around Savannah last week, under majestic old oaks, dodging the dangling Spanish moss,  I  gazed through wrought iron gates back through centuries at 18th and 19th century houses and churches.

I stopped by a favorite piece of history, the Owens-Thomas house, built in the early 19th century in the Georgian style with massive columns so associated with the American South.  It's said that Lafayette stayed here when it was lodging house in 1825.  

I peaked in the windows of Juliette Gordon Lowe House, birth place of the founder of the American Girl Scouts.  

Later my companion and I had dinner within one of the oldest buildings in Savannah.  Built in 1771 as a wealthy banker's home and later a bank, the Olde Pink House has witnessed centuries of Southern history.  Early colonists held secret meetings on securing Independence from Britain.  During the Civil War after Sherman captured Savannah, General York set up headquarters here.   Then after years acting as various venues and ultimately falling into decay, it  was bought and restored as a restaurant in 1992.  

And it is  a beautiful restaurant -- flowing over with history and elegance with its  large but comfortably-sized rooms, wide plank wooden floors, high ceilings with crown and chair-rail moldings, and historic paintings and fixtures.  And of course, marvelous southern food....

We also chose to stay in one of Savannah's  historic hotels -- the Planter's Inn which stands on the former site of the first parsonage of John Wesley, who came to Savannah in 1736.  The original hotel was constructed from the remains of two 1812 residents, which was refurbished and reopened as the Planters Inn in 1984.)

After dinner, we again walked Savannah's  streets, buildings and trees now ablaze in the glow of the gaslights.

In the early morning,  the riverside, bustling in the evening, is eerily deserted and quiet. We cross a lovely iron bridge and pass the Old Cotton Exchange Building to get there. (In it's peak as a cotton port,  over two million bales a year moved through Savannah.)

Steamboats line up waiting early arriving tourists.

Much like Paris, Savannah is an intriguing city, drawing you in, creating impressions and memories more intense than present life.  Savannah, though has a personality of its own that wraps you in history and mystery.... and beckons you back again and again.

Savoring the Beaune Market -- A Gastronomic Paradise

There is no doubt when I breeze through the many photos that I took while in France recently that "food" was definitely one of the major themes of my trip. And no wonder. Not only does the food in France taste better than in the U.S., and I truly believe it does, it looks so alluring. Whether it's the richness of colors and texture, the presentation or arrangement in a food stand or on a plate or just the food itself, the food in France is as dazzling to the eyes as it is to the tastebuds.

Perhaps this is why the French Market is such a attraction for tourists, even if timing doesn't permit a single purchase. While in recent years local markets are becoming more omnipresent in the US, the French market is still unique.  Americans see shopping at a local market as more of a novelty, the French (at least in the smaller towns) rely more on the markets for the weekly produce despite the growing presence of the supermarche. And the Beaune  market is a gem... with stand after stand of cheeses, sausages, fruits, vegetables, crafts, clothes and more.

We went in the rain.. a pleasant soft rain which helped carry the wonderful smells of roasting chicken, cheeses, and flowers. The stalls melded together through the shower in an impressionistic blur of color.

It was Saturday, Beaune's main market day. Visitors come from all around to taste and see the harvests of local farms, local aromatic Burgundian cheeses, tantalizing dried sausage, sweet freshly-picked lopes, and, of course, breads, wonderful, wonderful breads. The market on this rainy day bounced with umbrellas. And I suspect it was less congested than on a sunnier morning. However, we started our venture through the long winding cavalcade of delights under cover in the indoor part of the market -- the Halles.

Most French towns and large villages have a stationary covered market (marche couvert) frequently called "les Halles." The Halles in Beaune houses mostly the fresh meat, cheese, eggs..but some candies and fruits as well.

From here, you wander down a main artery of Beaune toward's the town's primary tourist attraction, the Hospices de Beaune, the medieval building which housed a hospital for the poor. (Definitely worth a visit while in Beaune.) Vendors anxious for you to notice and perhaps buy their wares offer tastes of incredible cheeses, fruits and other savories as you meander past their stalls.

It only takes a few visits to these traditional local markets with their abundance of fresh, local meats and produce to appreciate the heritage of this slower way of life. It also explains in many ways why food is France is so darn good.

Wanderings in France ...in one word delicious "diversity"

Just a brief post on coming home again after a month of travel... I've been remiss in not posting during my trip, but in trying to pack in as much as possible during the day, I found it difficult to miss a moment of wandering to sit and write..

France is a feast for the senses.... the sights, the smells, the tastes, the sounds....  For weeks we wandered -- walking, climbing, walking, climbing absorbing these sensations. We..

Ascended the steps in Montmartre to Sacre Coeur...

Waited in line at Berthillon for ice cream on Ile St. Louis....

Watched tourists taking photos of giant bubbles near the Beaubourg...

Watched tourists taking photos everywhere..

Peered through the golden gate at Versailles ...

Marveled at a medieval buildings.... (this one Medieval Hospital in Beaune):

Roamed through miles of underground wine caves:

Rambled aimlessly through the rooms of many, many chateaux...

Visited a piece of America on French soil...

My lasting impression from a month in France is  in one word...diversity.  On any given evening we  would be mingled in a Paris cafe with Ghanians, Italians, New Yorkers, Chinese, Germans, Algerians and, of course, some Parisians.   On the block where we stayed in Paris, there were Indian, Chinese, Italian, Moroccan, Japanese, and two French restaurants, for one of which, a steak and frites joint,  people queued every night down the street to get a table.

And on just about every block in Paris and in the small French towns we visited,  patisserie windows bedazzled with tormentingly diverse selections of delicacies luring you like the Sirens did another traveler.

We roamed the neighborhoods of Paris through centuries of architecture, art, music and culture -- from the ancient alleys of the left bank and isles in the Seine to the ultra-modern towers of La Defense, from the small wine towns of Burgundy through the Loire Valley to Normandy.  Every day we tried to see and taste and hear all we could.   And along the way the genuine joy of living cascaded over us like an immense waterfall.   

New APP helps Travelers Navigate Medical Needs Abroad

I remember a scary time in Rome when I experienced an Asthma attack and had to seek local medical attention..another when my spouse caught a horrible cold in Amsterdam that needed attention. Not to speak of the times I've wandered into a pharmacy in Italy or France, trying to find a medication or particular healthcare product.

A new APP for the Iphone and IPod may help with such medical needs when travelling. The first app to help travelers in need of medical services when they are abroad, mPassport is now available in the iTunes App Store for downloading onto n iPhones and iPads around the world.

Just announced mPassport enables you to:

 -- Use your smart phone or laptop to find a conveniently located, carefully-selected, English-speaking doctor or dentist and request an appointment


-- Use mapping and GPS functionality to find the shortest route to convenient care


-- Translate brand names for medications and key medical terms and phrases


-- Understand health risks and access the right emergency services


"About half of all travelers who spend more than two weeks abroad get sick or injured, and we're there to help them when they need assistance," says Angelo Masciantonio, Chief Executive of HTH Worldwide. "Travelers typically do not prepare for illness or injury when traveling abroad and when they need healthcare, they often don't know where to turn. mPassport apps make it simple to get quality care when it's needed far away from home."

HTH Worldwide has created mPassport apps for these popular business and leisure destinations:
-- Barcelona, Budapest, Dublin, Florence, London, Madrid, Paris, Prague, Rome, Vienna -- Cape Town, Nairobi -- Buenos Aires, Lima, Mexico City, Quito -- Bermuda, Nassau -- Beijing, Hong Kong




Category: ..Travel Issue

Mark Twain's Bermuda -- "You go to heaven... I'd druther stay here."

Among the many places where Mark Twain wandered penning articles and books along the way was a place that continued to lure him back again and again.....Bermuda.  Having spent almost as many days in Bermuda as Twain did in his life time (between 1867 and 1910 Mark Twain spent a total of 187 days in Bermuda), I can well understand the magnetic force that caused him to visit these enchanted isles over and over.

He arrived for the first time in Bermuda as many travelers do today by cruise ship.  In  November of 1867, Twain walked from the deck of  the SS Quaker City into the sub-tropical paradise towards the end of a long cruise that took him from New York to the Mediterranean, the "Holy Land" (Israel) and back to New York with a group of religious pilgrims.   It was during this trip that Twain wrote "Innocents Abroad," the best selling of his works during his life time. 

On his first brief visit,  Twain is said to have visited many of the places where passengers wander whose cruise ships pull into Hamilton's harbor.  He joked about the  enormous rubber tree (still there) on the grounds of Par-la-Ville Park.   The park which I passed through many times myself is just beyond one of the main streets in Hamilton  (Queen Street) near the post office.   It was the Postmaster William B. Perot, who laid out the gardens of the park in the mid-1800s.  A classic stone Bermudian moon gate bedecked with blooms and vines probably was likely the entrance Twain used.  

Fairmont Hamilton Princess today

Over time Twain became one of Bermuda's most famous visitors and advocates. In recognition of this role, busts of him are still to be found ...one, as was pointed out to me by twitterer fairmontham (official tweep for the Fairmont Hamilton Princess), is located in the lobby of the Fairmont Hamilton Princess.  Shame on me for not remembering this statue that I passed many times on my visits there.  

It was Twain who helped bring Americans back to Bermuda after the American Civil War.  Few  Americans wanted to visit the island paradise in the post-war years still angered by the blockades run from there supporting the South during the conflict.   Twain reminded Americans of Bermuda's seductiveness promoting the isles not just for short summer vacations but for longer sojourns during cold and bitter US winters.  In a 15,000-word sketch "Some Rambling Notes of an Idle Excursion" published in four installments in the Atlantic Monthly from October 1877 through January 1878 he devotes two chapters to his second trip to Bermuda in 1877.  It was these articles that helped attract many affluent Americans there starting in the 1880s... and on January 1, 1885 the Hamilton Princess opened to accommodate many of these new travelers.  Mark Twain was a frequent guest.

A view of Hamilton Harbor from hilltop overlooking Hamilton, Bermuda

Twain returned for many longer sojourns in the "Bermudas" often making back to back trips in his later years. He resided most of the time at Bay House, at 4 Old Slip Lane, at the end of a private access road off Pitt's Bay Road in Pembroke Parish only a short distance from Hamilton. The house, still there, is on the coast facing the waterfront of Hamilton Harbor with views of nearby small islands. 

While on Bermuda,  Twain would frequently meet up with other prominent guests of the isles.  He chatted on one visit, for instance, with Upton Sinclair, the author of The Jungle (1906), which had just caused a national sensation in the US at the time.  And on another, he played minature golf and lunched with President Woodrow Wilson.  

While I am sure Twain's Bermuda,  the Bermuda of 100 plus years ago was much more tranquil than today -- no cars (he was instrumental in keeping them out of Bermuda for 30 years) or mopeds, fewer tourists, no industry to speak of.  But no matter,  many of the qualities that drew him there continue to bring me to Bermuda again and again, if not always in person, in spirit, to it's subtle suggestion of Britain, it's unparalleled serenity, it's breathtaking vistas,  it's many hidden, enchanting little nooks, it's warmth not only in climate but in it's only-to-be-found-on-Bermuda people with their amazing polite manner and lovely clipped version of English.  Twain encountered something very special from his first visit and went back to seek it there to the very end of his life.  “You go to heaven if you want to,” Mark Twain wrote from Bermuda in 1910 during his long last visit, one hundred years ago, “I’d druther stay here.”

More information on Mark Twain in Bermuda:

Books:

Mark Twain and the Happy Island. Wallace, Elizabeth. 1913. Chicago, McClug. 139 pages. Illustrated.

Mark Twain In Paradise – His Voyages to Bermuda. American writer Donald Hoffmann. The special relationship that Mark Twain had with turn of the century Bermuda. University of Missouri Press, 2006.

Websites:

http://www.bermuda-online.org/twain.htm