Traveling Solo in London

Recently reading a blog from Isabelle's Travels (@isabellestravel on Twitter) on traveling alone in Paris caused me to reflect on some solo travel of my own.  Perhaps the city I have spent more time alone in than any other in the world outside the US is London.  Having had several jobs that took me solo to London and then later accompanying a spouse who had business there..... I have wandered and discovered much of the city on my own on travel there.

True having a companion to share discoveries with is part of what I love about traveling.  But I also love the undistracted and totally self-directed momentum that touring and exploring a destination unescorted gives me.  Decisions on whether to stop at a cafe or take the tube here or there are totally mine.  Time spent in a museum or not totally up to me.  Taking photos with abandon without disrupting a companion's experience is ok.

For that reason while I had objectives for my touring days of London,  i.e. some target destinations, I generally was loose about it leaving room for discovery or lingering where particularly intrigued.   One of my favorite things to do would be to have an early breakfast..... I loved a cafe...which now has many locations throughout London.. Patisserie Valerie.  They serve the most incredible scrambled eggs with toast or croissant and coffee.  There I could linger over my travel books and plan the day.... in the quiet ambiance of the place.  Or, if I were staying at a B&B which I frequently did, I would take the typical English breakfast and perhaps chat with another guest.

I took my notebook and made my plan...carrying it with me during the day to jot down observations.  As a aside,  no matter where I am, I always have a notebook and a camera.  Even if you're not a writer or blogger carrying a notebook especially when alone gives you the opportunity to jot down impressions that you can relate to friends and family later on.  It also acts in a way as a substitute companion.... gives you a sense of being on purpose... and not as self-conscious about being alone.  

My solo journeys through London in addition to all the obvious places took me to spend time observing a session of Parliament, to sip afternoon tea and munch on delicate sandwiches especially at Browns, to wander through the Tate Museum for hours and  gaze at the Turners, to visit the Courtauld, an exquisite gem of a museum with an excellent impressionist collection, through Covent Garden and to Portobello Road for antique shops and much more.

But the solo experience that stands out for me above the rest is that of going to the theatre by myself.  The first play I saw in a theatre on my own was in London.  The theatre was packed... I had a seat way up in the highest section of the balcony and was cramped in amongst other Americans who had gotten terrible, last minute seating.  It didn't matter.  For the first time here was this incredible cast singing their hearts out "Can you hear the people sing..." and the rest of the audience, the humid air of the old building, the uncomfortable seat, even the distance from the stage were shut out.  I could only hear the singing and see the colorful staging and costumes. This magnificent performance was just for me..... and I loved it!

"Young Victoria" draws a traveler to reconnect with the Victoria and Albert Museum in London

The new film "The Young Victoria," in which Emily Blunt brings to life the woman who eventually is symbolic with an age that has continued to influence style and design to this day, is a must-view for travel enthusiasts on many levels. Victoria's long reign and prodigy, nine children and forty-two grandchildren, all married into the courts of Europe, created an impact on the world we know and travel in that world which makes knowing a bit more about her imperative for the discerning traveler.

After watching the film I was reminded of one of my favorite museums -- a legacy that Victoria and Albert gave to London and the world-- and free to visit. Unfortunately, the V & A is not typically on the "top" lists created by tour guide writers because London is so chock full of historic sites and places to visit for the whiz-through tourist. But for the more seasoned traveler or second/third time visitor, the Victoria and Albert is definitely worth scheduling some time. It is also a place to explore a particular interest in conjunction with your trip.

Perhaps one of the greatest collections of artifacts of art and design, the Museum houses over 3000 years of items from cultures throughout the world including extensive holdings in architecture, ceramics, fashion, furniture, glass, metalwork, painting, photography, sculpture and textiles.

Highlights of the museum of interest to the travel enthusiast include the Architecture gallery featuring selections from collections of drawings, models, photographs and fragments exploring comparative building strategies from around the world and changing styles. The V&A also owns the most comprehensive collection of ceramics in the world, and is current redisplaying for the first time in 100 years the collection spanning from early Chinese pottery dated 3500 BC to contemporary ceramic art. Incorporating a workshop area where pottery techniques are demonstrated, the new ceramic galleries also allow visitors to make and decorate their own ceramics.

Not to be missed is the fashion and jewelry collection which covers dress from the 17th century to the present day and over 3500 jewels reflecting the splendor of courtly life -- a highlight of which are diamonds worn by Catherine the Great of Russia and tiaras worn the Empress Josephine. The V&A's collection of stained glass spanning periods from 1140 through 1960 is particularly strong in medieval and Renaissance church art. Also demonstrating the focus on this period, the museum's new Medieval and Renaissance Galleries opened in December of 2009 to include Gothic altarpieces, notebooks of Da Vinci and sculpture of many Italian Masters.

Part of coming to London is the theatre experience, and a V&A visit is a great adjunct to a theatrically themed journey. The V&A's Theatre Collections hold the UK's national collection on live performance spanning from Shakespeare's time through today including art, costumes, video recordings, posters, puppets and photographs, theatre programs and other ephemera. Among the Theatre Collection's highlights are over 3500 stage costumes and accessories from the mid-18th century onwards.

In addition to displays from permanent collection, the V&A runs programs of changing exhibitions and displays. Admission , as noted above is free, with some special exhibitions having a separate charge. Open from 10 till 5:45 PM daily, selected galleries remain open until late on the last Friday of the month. This is a fun time to go to have a glass of wine, attend a concert or special gallery talk. Check the schedule at events.

7 Must-Dos Traveling in London

Having spent the equivalent of months in London a week or two at a time -- I note that my view of the must-dos or must-sees, while consistent with what most travel guides or writers have concluded, differs somewhat because of particular interests.  Here they are, all with the caveat of time permitting:

1) A Yoman Warder tour of the The Tower of London is a must, including seeing, of course, the Crown Jewels.

2) Not just touring the The Houses of Parliament, but sitting in the galleries during debates. The galleries are open to the public when the Houses are meeting , which is from Monday to Thursday and on "Sitting" (meeting)  Fridays, with differing times for each House. The galleries are not open during recess, when neither House is meeting.

3) Having High Tea at one of the finer hotels in London.  My favorites:  Browns or the Lanesborough

4) Watching the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace.   However, if you miss this or are visiting London in the Summer between the end of July and the end of September, you can visit the state rooms of the Palace.  For more information.

5) Seeing Shakespeare preferably at the Globe or if not you cup of tea -- a West End show.  Going to the theatre in London is a special experience not to be missed.

6) Perusing  major museums -- most importantly the British Museum

7) Taking  one of the  Double-Decker Bus Tours and jumping  off to see highlights like Westminster Cathedral or to walk through Harrods.

Most importantly, walk, take the Tube, and enjoy the street life  around this great town while doing the must-do's.

London is perhaps my second favorite city in the world.  There are endless things to do and see there..limiting this list to seven is painful.