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Friday, July 10, 2009

Sidney, Nebraska a landmark of the American West

While driving from Denver on Route 76 in Northeastern Colorado, it is only the event of a roadrunner skirting across the highway and the intermittent patches of brilliant yellow wildflowers that break the monotony of vast nothingness. We’re heading to Sidney, Nebraska by way of Route 76 and then Nebraska Highway 19 ……destination Cabella’s.

The importance of Cabella’s to Sidney is evidenced by the first landmark you see approaching the town. Like the Eiffel Tower to Paris, the shining green water tower boldly imprinted with Cabela’s brand is to Sidney.

Established in 1867 as a railroad town, better known as a jumping off point to the Black Hills of South Dakota for gold seekers, Sidney had a rich history prior to Cabella’s. Originally a settlement of the Union Pacific Railroad designed to provide living quarters for railroad construction workers, the town got it's name from Sidney Dillion, who was at the time head of the Union Pacific.

While the railroad was being expanded across Western Nebraska in 1867, the Sioux, Cheyenne and Arapahoe intensified their attacks in attempts to thwart construction. To protect the railroad workers and the track being laid, a troop station was established and later a Fort, Fort Sidney. Today in what remains of the original fort, an authentic restoration of the living quarters of the post commander from 1867-1894, operates as a museum.

A walk through the Fort Sidney Museum is a journey back to a critical period in the history of the American West. Along with period furniture, household items and clothing from the the late 19th and early 20th century, eye-catching photos of cowboys, railroad workers and townspeople from the time pull you back to this mythical era. The railroad memorabilia is especially noteworthy, in particular, the advertisement for the Union Pacific Line from Omaha to Sidney that warns against "bad storms, bad lands, and bad ferries" encountered when not using the rail line.

Because the Sidney-Deadwood Trail was the shortest route to the gold fields, and Sidney was the main link with military outposts and Indian agencies and a trailhead for cattle drives going both East and West, the town attracted some not so welcome characters, like the noted horse thief, Doc Middleton. Sidney's main street became lined with saloons, gaming halls, houses of ill-repute, boarding houses, and the world’s first all night theatre. Today the historic downtown Sidney is much quieter and has a charm of its own with some restaurants and shops.

Then on the outskirts of Sidney is what draws most people to the area today --- Cabella's, the world famous outfitter....a topic for another post.

There's a tourist tweeter in Sidney, NE: SidneyNebraska. Then, of course, there's cabelasfishing, currently the only official Cabela's tweeter.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Custer State Park --- Part of Norbeck's Scenic Byway in South Dakota

I wasn't prepared to be enchanted nor was I prepared for buffalo crossing the road at their leisure as we headed up to Custer, South Dakota for a night's stay and visit to Mount Rushmore. But once we saw the majestic bison with their enormous heads and proud steady gait, I knew we'd arrived at a special place. So while in this area of South Dakota, in addition to our visit to Mount Rushmore, we ventured to Custer State Park. And just by way of our journey from Custer, SD to Mount Rushmore, we drove on other parts of Norbeck's scenic byway which takes you through lush forests and past eye-catching rock formations.


Peter Norbeck, Governor of and US Senator from South Dakota, who brought artist and sculptor Gutzon Borgium to South Dakota and acquired the federal funding needed to carve four presidential images into the side of a mountain in his state, also contributed to development of the system of scenic roads leading to Mount Rushmore and the development of national and state parks in South Dakota among them Badlands National Park, Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park. Singlehandedly, he created lots of reasons for tourists to visit this amazing wilderness area.

If you are coming here...do use the map of Mr. Norbeck's scenic byways and spend the time traversing these winding scenic roads all leading to what amounts to an American Oz. As you wander on these curvy roads, realize the intent was for you to enjoy the scenery. One of Norbeck's goals was to also lead travelers to the 71,000 acre, Custer State Park. And it was Mr. Norbeck's road and some roaming buffalo that led us there.

The Lakota called them "tatanka," early explorers named them "buffalo," the huge, raggedy creatures that once roamed the praries in the millions. And Custer State Park is probably one of the best places in the country to see an abundance of what are technically bison, the largest animals in North America. About a century ago, two men who realized that these magnificent beasts were disappearing did something about it. Just as American bison were nearing extinction due to over hunting, Pete Dupree kept five bison calves and raised them; later Scotty Philip purchased this small herd which ultimately were the forebearers of the 1,500 bisons that roam Custer State Park.

And roam they do, through meadows, and very slowly across roads in front of cars, sometimes arrogantly standing in place in front of a vehicle visually commanding " go ahead, make my day." Seeing them and their calfs in multitude are a wonder as is just gazing across the green, yellow, and purple meadows aligning the Wildlife Loop Road spotting a prarie dog, or a meadowlark, a herd of burrors, remnants of was once a tourist trek to the top of Harney Peak, or seeing pronghorn ( I thought they were antelope as most neophytes to the park do), or if you are lucky an elk. There are also whitetail deer (which we did see), mule deer, mountain goats, coyotes, bighorn sheep, numerous varieties of birds and mountain lion (yes I said lions) that make their home in the park.

Our stay here was too brief. We did manage to walk a bit up one of the numerous trails (on most trails you can horseback ride or hike, on some mountain bike or just walk), stop at the State Game Lodge, "Summer White House" for President Calvin Coolidge (one of four lodges in the park), and admire the attactive campsites throughout the park (260 which can be reserved beginning in early January for May to October visitors at http://www.campsd.com/). Swimming is allowed at the park's five lakes, boating is permitted with some restrictions, and fishing is allowed anywhere with a valid South Dakota fishing license. Check out all the details on the park at http://www.custerstatepark.info/.


Tweeters in the area:


www.twitter.com/KOA_MTRUSHMORE

Tweets about campsites near Mount Rushmore


www.twitter.com/travelsd

Official Tweeter for South Dakota tourism 


www.twitter.com/rushmrfireworks

PR about Mount Rushmore and fireworks


www.twitter.com/sdexplorer

Discusses South Dakota events, culture



References:

Tatanka, the 2009 Guide to Custer State Park.

The Clock at Musee D’Orsay