Christmas Time is Definitely More Kitschy in Key West

To begin with as soon as you add palm trees to Christmas, you have an oxymoron.  

And then there's Key West, and you can add some extraordinarily different Christmas ornaments.  You could choose one of these for your Christmas tree from Fast Buck Freddies on Duval Street.

And then of course there are the bespeckled coconuts that make for a unique holiday ornamentation.

In tropical climates, you can decorate your outdoor tree as you might your indoor evergreen as in this gorgeous display.  

Beautiful Victorian residences and inns may be subtly enhanced for the season.

Or some conch homes may go to the extreme for all the glitz they can deliver.

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The classic Key West bars like the Green Parrot get even greener during the holidays.

Palm trees along the waterfront and throughout the town are wrapped in light.  

Poinsettias are everywhere.  Here they accent this classic entrance.

And it wouldn't be Key West without a parade.

 There is no doubt that Santa is here and undoubtedly loving the weather.

Rediscovering America -- On the Tamiami Trail to the Keys

It was unusually cold for Florida even in December as we started our journey to Key West. While we could have taken I75 - Alligator Alley  (puzzles me why it's called this since it is very rare to see alligators along this fast lane through the Everglades), the adventure would have been lost. Instead we took the old route, Tamiami (to Miami) Trail, which allowed for stops along one of the most exotic roads in the U.S. 

From Naples we enter Big Cypress Preserve, where hammocks of immense bald cypress trees rise up from the swampy land teaming with life.   I'm just in the middle of reading a wonderful book called "the Orchid Thief" by Susan Orlean and as we pass by the thick jungle-like places (the Fakahatchee, e.g.) where she wandered with her quixotic guide, places where snakes and alligators thrive, I have to shutter and admit that I am not that much of an adventurer -- and that there are places where I do fear to tread, although I love reading about them and gazing at them at a relatively safe distance.

We made a brief stop at the visitor center which is located where Route 29 crosses Tamiami Trail.  From there, you can pick up lots of maps, pamphlets about the area and such.  Had time permitted we would have visited Everglades City further down 29 -- its a unique piece of old Florida, with some historic buildings, a museum and opportunities for Everglade tours.  Further along the trail, we passed the Wooten Swamp Buggy Tours -- been there done that -- another Florida tourist thing that you should do at least once in your life.  In the little town of Ochopee, we also stopped by the smallest post office in the U.S., where I mailed a postcard of the small little post office.  We did also stop at Clyde Butcher's, a wilderness photographer, who for years lived in a small cottage behind the gallery in Big Cypress -- he only recently moved to Venice, Florida.


Further along  Tamiami Trail into the Everglades runs a shallow waterway with a narrow bank just on the side of a endless stretch of sawgrass march dotted here and there in the backdrop by dense hammocks of palms, gumbo-limbos and other sub-tropical trees.

Today almost every 30 feet or so, we spotted an alligator, so many of them that we decided to stop an the Oasis Visitor Center in Big Cypress to get a closer view.   The Center has a boardwalk raised above the shallow stream that parallels the highway.  Amazingly herons, anahinga and other birds perch over the waters gazing at the pristine crystal stream teaming with fish along with many, many alligators who swim and sun themselves along the bank.

1 According to Wikipedia "The 165 mile  north–south section (hidden SR 45) extends to Naples, whereupon it becomes an east–west road (hidden SR 90) crossing the Everglades (and forming part of the northern border of Everglades National Park) before becoming Southwest Eighth Street in Miami-Dade "

Freezing in Florida -- Experiencing "Ice" at the Gaylord Palms Orlando

I'd often heard about "ICE," the annual display of hand-carved frozen sculptures that takes place at the Gaylord Palms in Kissimmee, Florida near all the Orlando Disney World attractions. (There are also similar shows at other Gaylord hotels.) Last year towards the end of the season there, I decided to experience it first hand.

From the Jungle of Gaylord's Everglades to the Artic "ICE"

It was an early somewhat crisp Sunday morning -- 60 degrees outside when we embarked with some trepidation into the frozen wilderness of "ICE" at 9 degrees -- remember I am a Floridian, anything under 50 is freezing. The Gaylord Palms Hotel is a somewhat daunting place to begin with -- a theme park inside a hotel with all kinds of funky Florida themes that take you through the swamps of the Everglades to Key West, to the walled Spanish look of St. Augustine. But even the dragon pool can't come close to the main attraction here come every November --- "ICE."

Once we had bought our tickets, we were escorted into a room where all sizes of very padded winter coats were provided.  (We had come somewhat prepared for this -- and didn't wear sandals for instance and wore long pants.) But as we were to soon find out, we would need those ugly winter parkas.

We heeded all the warnings and I covered my camera lens up with my parka so that my camera wouldn't give out between photos.  Then we trudged into the gallery with about 50 or so others... who had been ticketed for the same entry time as we had.

The exhibition itself is about 18,000 square-feet of frosty characters and settings, that are carved each year by a team of artisans from Harbin, China.  Harbin is world-famous for its annual Ice and Snow Festival where more than 2,000 sculptors annually care a 100-acre walk through an ice park. Ice Lantern Festivals can be traced back as far as the late Ming and early Qing dynasties of Imperial China where 500 years ago hunters created ice lanterns to help guide themselves home.

 

We walked through a huge ice tunnel into a vast frozen world. And I have to admit I was truly awed by the intricate carvings of bears, sheep, angels, reindeer and more. Most impressive were the huge ice-carved manger and carousel. And, of course, I had to try the ice slide -- hey I had the parka to protect me.

This year's "ICE" at the Gaylord Palms opens tomorrow. The Theme for 2010 is "Twas the Night Before Christmas" And if you decide to go, even if you don't stay at the Gaylord, check out the hotel, it is unique! And be sure to bring hats, gloves and dress warm--it's cold even in Florida. For more information, or to purchase your tickets by phone, call (407) 586-4423.

Marveling at the history, geology and music of Red Rocks Amphitheatre

Wandering up the winding road from Denver, you first catch a glimpse of the deep red sandstone rock formations  in the distance.   This is an awesome sight in its own right, but when you drive under a sandstone arch and arrive at the geologically formed amphitheatre, unique in all the world, you are spellbound by the grandeur of it.

The amphitheatre, now known as Red Rocks and originally called the Garden of Angels, and no wonder, consists of two, three hundred-foot monoliths (Ship Rock and Creation Rock) and man-made seating that extends between them swooping down to the stage with a drop-dead gorgeous view of the City of Denver below.

It was in the early 1900's, that “Renaissance Man,” John Brisben Walker(1), journalist, owner/editor of Cosmopolitan Magazine, automobile manufacturer, land developer, hotelier, and owner of property that included what is now Red Rocks, dreamed of having a performing venue at the natural amphitheatre with such perfect acoustics. He arranged for a famous opera singer(2) of the day to perform there, and when she pronounced it the best concert hall she had ever sang in, attention was drawn to what Walker labeled “The Garden of Titans.”

 Walker went on to produce a number of concerts between 1906 and 1910(3) on a temporary platform, but it wasn’t until much later than plans for a formal concert venue took hold.  The City of Denver purchased the area of Red Rocks from Walker for the price of $54,133 in 1927 during the depression. Timing was right. Work programs created to get the economy back on its feet at the time provided the labor for the project. The federally sponsored Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and the Work Projects Administration (WPA), were engaged to construct the amphitheatre based on Denver architect Burnham Hoyt’s design, maintaining the beauty of the original natural theatre. It was finally dedicated in 1941.

Since then outstanding performers from every era of music have performed here. The earliest notable rock and roll performance at Red Rocks was by The Beatles  in August, 1964 (some clips). During a five-year ban of rock music from the venue after 1000 unticketed fans, many unruly,  showed up at a Jethro Tull concert, Red Rocks focussed on easier listening  from John Denver, Sonny & Cher, The Carpenters, Pat Boone, Seals & Crofts, and Carole King. But over the years since Sting, Santana, Joe Cocker, U2 among other have had concerts at Red Rocks. More recently Barenaked Ladies, Tom Petty & the Heartbreakers, Zac Brown's Band and John Mayer have performed there.

The thought of going to a concert or an Easter morning service(4) here is mind-blowing. (Twitter friend Jason talks about this in one of his blogs: http://www.jasons-travels.com/my-colorado/red-rocks-amphitheatre.) But there’s more to Red Rocks than its concerts making it worth going there even in the off-season – for the gorgeous setting, to hike around and enjoy the magnificent vistas, to marvel at the incredible human engineering feat, to consider the geologic, entrepreneurial and musical history of the place. The Visitor Center features interactive educational displays, a short film documentary on the geologic and musical history, and a Performer's Hall of Fame.

(1) Ironically after years of investing in countless ventures, many of which earned him millions, Walker died penniless in 1931 at the age of 83.The ruins of Walker’s magnificent house are still visible along Walker’s Dream Trail on Mount Falcon.  More on Walker.
(2) Mary Garden was known as the Sarah Bernhardt of Opera.  She was a household name in the US in the early 1900s.  More information and photos. 
(3) The earliest documented performance at the amphitheater was the Grand Opening of the Garden of the Titans, on May 31, 1906. featuring Pietro Satriano and his 25-piece brass band.
(4) The first event at Red Rocks Amphitheatre was the Easter sunrise service in 1947.  The Easter Sunrise service is now the opening event every year. 

Tips for the Road Warrior: Going Back and Forth from Warm to Cold Climates

One of the difficulties in traveling frequently is the transitions from cold to warm climates and vice versa -- what to pack, what to wear etc.  I live in Florida and travel all over so I am frequently faced with this dilemma especially in these days of high security at airports -- shoe removal, coat removal etc., and extra charges for baggage etc.  What we globe trotters will do for the love of travel.

First off, when there is time and you don't have to cross oceans, you can drive.  Which I do, when I can, so I can bring whatever I need, and don't have to deal with the airport, airline hassles.  But in most cases, I don't have and you won't either the luxury of using personal transportation.   So here are some tips, I have found useful:

What to pack and not pack:

1.  Try and stick with one or two colors and some accent pieces.

2.  Limit shoes -- one pair for each type of weather/activity encounter --  boots, sneaks, dress shoes, sandals.  Wear the sandals to the hot place, boot type shoe to the cold place-- the kind that are easier to get out of.  See caveat on boots below.

3.  If you live in a warm climate, and you will be at your cold destination for a longer stay, consider buying some cheap heavier clothing at a Walmart-type place when you get to your destination so you don't have to lug as much -- I can usually get what I need to supplement what I have carted along for under $50.  (This goes for underwear too -- get rid of it when you leave).  This also holds true if you coming and going to the same cold destination for short stays.  Many hotels will hold some luggage for you if you return frequently.  Once you don't need the stuff you bought -- give it to the hotel maid or Goodwill. Or if you really must keep it, ship it home.

4.  Again If you know you will be coming and going from the same destination a number of times, find some way to leave things behind... at the dry cleaners for instance.  Pick it up when you return.  And/or  leave a bag with climate-related clothes at the hotel where you stay, many places will let frequent guests do this. (I buy a cheap piece of luggage under $20 for this purpose.)

5.  Use space saver vacuum bags to compress the bulkier items you have to bring -- like a heavy coat and sweater.

6. If you are heading to a colder climate, be sure you pack gloves, socks, scarf, hat and boots that will keep you warm enough for winter conditions. (If I know I am going to a place where there is likely to be snow I will bring a heavier boot in addition to wearing shoe-boots despite the added weight.)

7. Don't forget moisturizers -- especially if you are heading from a more humid climate to a dryer one -- you'll use more than you typically do.  Of course, you can always buy more at a local store so don't over do it.



What to Wear:

1.  Dress for the climate your heading for, just layer and dual purpose appropriately -- see below.

2.  Layer and dual purpose -- Wear a couple of layers, e.g. going north: thinner weight tee with long sleeves under a shirt, then another sweater, sweatshirt or jacket; going south: a tank top or short sleeved tee, with warmer light weight clothes on top.  You can then remove these and stuff them in your carry-on before getting off the flight.

3.  Try if at all possible to pack the bulkier, buttoned and zippered stuff, and if you have to wear a jacket or coat make it one that is lighter weight, easy to get off and on.   Dragging bulky coats through a plane when you also have carry-ons to deal with is a real nuisance, not to speak of getting yourself through security. (If I have to wear a coat to the airport, I take it off when I get there and stuff it in a bag to be checked -- I leave room in that suitcase for this purpose)

4.  Again wear shoes that are easy to remove.   (I wear slip on boots with a side zipper going to a cold climate, and sandals to the warmer.  I make the footwear change at the airport, if need be.)

The People of France -- Who Ever Said the French Were Unfriendly?

A Charming Small Park in Paris 

When discussing  our recent stay in France, people have too often said to me "but the French are so rude, unfriendly."  This is an unfortunate perception that has clung to the French for many Americans like those horrible adhesive labels you can't  remove from a recent purchase.  Too frequently those who have held this opinion in their minds and hearts have never been to France or visited only briefly on one of those tourists' jolts through Europe.

French Lady feeds birds near Notre Dame

As an example of their "rudeness" one fellow American related a story of how he was looking for the Opera in Paris, and asked someone on the street how to find it and he refused to answer.  I wondered. First, I noted how this fellow pronounced it "OP ER AH" with a strong midwestern accent.  Also, did he as many Americans tend to do, stand too close without any introduction in some basic "travel" French, and shout out his question.  Did it occur that the French person might have been frightened or rightfully perturbed by this approach? Wouldn't the same American  be equally taken back  if someone approached him on the street in the U.S. in an equally baffling way shouting in a foreign language?

I know it happened to me --  in France.  A large American woman not knowing who I was, or what language I spoke -- I don't tend to carry any clues with me and dress very inconspicuously -- came up to me, tapped me roughly on the shoulder, and  shouted a question at me in poor French.  I was so shaken by her approach that  by the time I composed myself she had walked away to trouble someone else.  Undoubtedly, I became part of the "rude" French.

Rene  Hotel Sainte-Pierre Saumur, France

Contrary to this, what we found, more so than ever on this trip, was that the French people are incredibly friendly and gracious.  I think there are a couple reasons for our experience.  One, we did take the time to think about our approach first in French..."bonjour, parlez-vous anglais" and no touching.... and softer voice.  The other has to do with a real  change we have noticed from years ago.... more French people especially in Paris speak at least some English and many younger French speak it very well.  This has gone along way to help improve communications and dissolve misunderstanding.

Kind Shopkeeper in Boulangerie in Paris

Bottom line, I can relate that we were greeted enthusiastically and treated very courteously by hoteliers like Rene above and the lovely young woman, Veronique below.   Rene, who I had exchanged emails with, exuberantly welcomed us outside the hotel and carried all our luggage personally into the hotel.  Several  French women took time to carefully redirect us when we were lost in one area of Paris or another.   Shopkeepers went out of their way to attempt conversations with me in my very awkward French.  Taxi drivers were polite and went over-the-top to point out attractions.   While there was the occasional gruffness or misunderstanding, where anywhere in the US doesn't that happen.  Overall, we felt welcomed and  longed to linger and certainly return again and hopefully again.

Veronique Hotel L'Addresse Paris

Please share your comments below.

Send Yourself a Postcard -- A Travel Tip

Years ago on a jaunt to Maui we took a snorkling trip with an activity group called Trilogy -- one of my favorite travel memories by the way.   Not only was the day's adventure well-organized and a total blast, the group extended the enjoyment of the day by capturing excellent video footage and selling this as an add-on, and something small but equally clever, they had each of the passengers  write themselves a Trilogy postcard from Maui which the group later mailed to their homes.  

I won't go into all the marketing benefits of this -- not my purpose here.  The point is the postcard was waiting for us when we returned home -- encoring instantly that incredible travel memory.   It was this postcard and my own mom's collection of postcards that I'd sent her from my many travels that comprised the beginnings of my own collection.  

Now where ever I go, I try to write myself a postcard from that place with the date.   Not only do I have a flush of memories hit me to distract me from bills and other less enjoyable mail, but I have a cheap souvenir which I add to my collection.   I keep the collection in a series of binders, which reside on a shelf under the TV in our family room for quick access -- along with photos, these postcards provide a quick review of all the places we've been.  

Savannah --- A Hint of Paris in the American South

Maybe it's that everywhere I go I look for Paris. Recently on a breeze through one of my favorite Southern cities, I was reminded of Paris by the charming squares, historic monuments and beautiful old buildings, embellished with wrought-iron gates and balustrades.

Savannah was established in 1733 and designed by General James E. Oglethorpe, the founder of Georgia, around 24 squares (22 which still exist) providing shady respites from a hot, humid climate.    I've visited here many times, and each time discover something unique and special in this City of lovely parks, history and wonderful southern cuisine.

Strolling around Savannah last week, under majestic old oaks, dodging the dangling Spanish moss,  I  gazed through wrought iron gates back through centuries at 18th and 19th century houses and churches.

I stopped by a favorite piece of history, the Owens-Thomas house, built in the early 19th century in the Georgian style with massive columns so associated with the American South.  It's said that Lafayette stayed here when it was lodging house in 1825.  

I peaked in the windows of Juliette Gordon Lowe House, birth place of the founder of the American Girl Scouts.  

Later my companion and I had dinner within one of the oldest buildings in Savannah.  Built in 1771 as a wealthy banker's home and later a bank, the Olde Pink House has witnessed centuries of Southern history.  Early colonists held secret meetings on securing Independence from Britain.  During the Civil War after Sherman captured Savannah, General York set up headquarters here.   Then after years acting as various venues and ultimately falling into decay, it  was bought and restored as a restaurant in 1992.  

And it is  a beautiful restaurant -- flowing over with history and elegance with its  large but comfortably-sized rooms, wide plank wooden floors, high ceilings with crown and chair-rail moldings, and historic paintings and fixtures.  And of course, marvelous southern food....

We also chose to stay in one of Savannah's  historic hotels -- the Planter's Inn which stands on the former site of the first parsonage of John Wesley, who came to Savannah in 1736.  The original hotel was constructed from the remains of two 1812 residents, which was refurbished and reopened as the Planters Inn in 1984.)

After dinner, we again walked Savannah's  streets, buildings and trees now ablaze in the glow of the gaslights.

In the early morning,  the riverside, bustling in the evening, is eerily deserted and quiet. We cross a lovely iron bridge and pass the Old Cotton Exchange Building to get there. (In it's peak as a cotton port,  over two million bales a year moved through Savannah.)

Steamboats line up waiting early arriving tourists.

Much like Paris, Savannah is an intriguing city, drawing you in, creating impressions and memories more intense than present life.  Savannah, though has a personality of its own that wraps you in history and mystery.... and beckons you back again and again.