Taking the Road Less Travelled to the Hanging Houses of Cuenca, Spain

When planning our three some week venture into Spain, I had pretty much decided that Madrid, Toledo, Cordoba, Seville, Granada, and Barcelona were the musts, but all the while, even though it was off path, a journey to Cuenca persistently pushed its way back into my travel plan.  I do not regret that this off-guidebook destination... dismissed by some of the major savants of travel as too far from the main sightseeing priorities.. clung steadfast to our itinerary.


I researched the journey to Cuenca ad nauseum.. concerned that it might take our auto-based trip off on desolate roads far from civilization -- yeah yeah, I know -- using google earth et al to explore the terrain long before our rental car began the five-hour trip through the rugged, rusty-colored land of central Spain from Granada to Cuenca. No matter,  I just had to see the houses that had clung desparately to the edge of a cliff for over 500 years.


Cuenca like much of Spain retains the mysterious blend of Moorish and Christian stemming from its history of conquests.   When the Moors conquered Spain they spotted a limestone ridge between the Jucar and Huecar rivers and built a fortress-town from which to control the vast area known as the Kura de Kunka ), in the center of the caliphate of Córdoba -- in Spanish, Cuenca was born.  In the era of the crusades (12th century), a Christian town was built over the Moorish one spreading  down from the crest of the hill.  As the population expanded, the fortified upper town became dominated by Cuenca's churches and convents. The famous World Heritage Casas Colgados (Hanging Houses) are but a few remaining of hundreds of cliff-hugging dwellings built in the 15th century. These were originally part of a palace that later served as the city's town hall. 

Our plan with respect to Cuenca, in addition to seeing the famous houses, was to tick off another goal of the trip - to stay at many of the paradores of Spain ( a topic for another post).  So our journey after rolling through the oddly manicured lands immediately outside of Cuenca's more modern section took up us the winding road to the Parador of Cuenca.  This Parador noted as one of the best in Spain is in the former convent of San Pablo overlooking the Hoz del Huecar gorge with its sheer walls and luxuriant vegetation. The open courtyard, cloistered hallway that surrounds it, former chapel (obviously identified because of the religious paintings) now the hotel bar all added to the historic charm of the hotel.  While accomodations were modest, they were pleasant and comfortable enough, and we loved lingering at the tiny bar sipping Spanish wine with tapas as we chatted with the bartender and gazing at the overwhelming views of the ancient casas clinging precipitously to the edge of a natural wonder. 


While seeing first hand this amazing World Heritage site is enough of a reason to visit Cuenca, you can also wander into the old town of Cuenca (if you stay at the Parador -- you can get there across the iron-fortified stone bridge that crosses the gorge or take the road and get there by car.)  Once across the gorge you can visit the Muiseo de Arte Abstracto housed in one of the casas.  For the non-vertically challenged there is also a restaurant, Meson Casas Colgadas, next to the museum with vistas of the gorge.

Getting there: A fairly new AVE high-speed rail train connetcs Madrid – Atocha station and Cuenca – Fernando Zobel station, providing travellers with frequent  everyday accessibilit, reducing the journey to only 50 minutes. RENFE also operates a non high-speed service that gets to Cuenca  in 3 hours from Madrid. Auto Res, a bus operator, links Madrid to Cuenca with a 2 hour or 2:30 hour trip duration. The A-40 motorway, connects the city with the A-3 at Tarancon, 82 km away from Madrid.

There is Something I Love About Ducks Worldwide

There is something I just love about ducks. Maybe its their resiliency. Maybe its their discipline. Maybe its their ability to work together. Or maybe its just that they are so darn cute.. like in the video below... Caught in the gusty wind of a hurricane blowing on shore in Atlantic City yesterday, check out how these little fellows deal with it, and resume their lives as nature has taught them.

The Astonishing Vineyards of Lavaux -- a World Heritage Site on Lake Geneva in Switzerland

On route from Geneva to eastern Switzerland, .....

The Lavaux Vineyard Terraces, run for miles along the south shores of Lake Geneva from the Chateau de Chillon to  outskirts of Lausanne and cover the lower foothills of the mountainside between villages and lake. Evidence, according to the World Heritage website, points to the vines being grown during  Roman times, and present vine terraces can be traced back to the 11th century, when Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries dominated the area.

Normandy - a Journey Not to Forget on the Anniversary of D-Day

Travel connects one to historic experience in ways that reading or hearing about it never can.  I will never forget certain moments in certain places where for an instance I have felt the link across time and space in a way I never could before.   Visiting Normandy, being at the place where American soldiers waded through those rough waters, climbed those steep hills only to be met by gunfire and for many death.  The field of white crosses extending to the end of the plateau that meets the drop onto the beach below is so stirring I cannot find the words that don't sound trite in describing it.  Only the pictures tell story well.  And in humble tribute to those soldiers that died 68 years ago, the American Cemetery at Normandy remains.

The Flowering Patios of Cordova Spain -- A Crossroads of Culture

There are always regrets with travel.  Mine frequently involve two categories...  the roads not travelled. .. and the stays too brief.  Oh and one more has to do with timing.  So it was with Cordova, there were roads untraveled, the stay was way too brief and yes timing was off by just a day or two.  Nonetheless, in the 24 hours more or less we spent in Cordova, we did manage to catch the flavor of an enchanting place - a crossroads of culture, a capsule in time, a cornucopia of scenes, smells and sensations.

 And while we missed the critical window of the opening of Cordova's patios at the beginning of May (I thought we would be catching the end of this event, but we missed it by one day), while winding our way through the ancient narrow pathways of the city's historic district, it was hard to miss the Andalusian windows overflowing with geraniums and other colorful flora.

Too, as we wandered through the lanes too narrow for autos, it was easy to casually peak behind the wrought-iron gates of the endless little courtyards to see flowering blue pots pinned to white walls and pebbled floor patios decked with various pots overflowing with colorful blossoms and to listen to the trickle of lovely centerpiece fountains,.

Almost by accident we happened upon one of the most  photographed streets in Cordoba, Callejon de las Floras,  a cobbled narrow alley between whitewashed houses.  The balconies and walls are covered with vividly colored blooms in terracotta pots. The street literally bursts with pink, purple and vibrant red in a theater of color.

The origins of the patios are said to go back to when Rome controlled the city and houses were built around open areas.  The Moors augmented the courtyards adding fountains, arabesque arches, and flower beds.   What's a bit puzzling is that the patios are primarily in what is labelled the "Judica" section of Cordoba, where the Jewish community lived in the middle ages during the time of Caliphate rule when Cordoba was the largest city in Europe -- said to have had over one million residents.   Yet, there is no mention of the Jewish involvement in the design or promulgation of these lovely spaces...  That said, this earthly paradise has obviously been touched in one way or another by each of three major cultures.

Why Are Some International Carriers Charging a Low Fare and Tacking on a High Fuel Charge -- Frequent Fliers Beware

True at the end of the day the price is the same.... whether a carrier accurately and fairly charges you an airfare plus tax versus charging you a lower bogus base fare and tacking on a fuel surcharge.  Here are some reasons it matters.

• Travelers who think that they have socked away enough for "free" frequent flier awards and companion tickets will be surprised that after using their hard earned points they are still charged more than half of what the flight would have costed had they paid cash.   You might have bought into a frequent flier program thinking you were going to have enough mileage for two tickets to Europe say as advertised by their program .... only to find out that the surcharges make using the points cost prohibitive.   

• In countries other than the US which has laws against this deceptive practice (such surcharges have to be bundled into the base fare though airlines are US airlines are trying to get this changed), airlines can make their fares look much lower than they really are, at least in countries where they're allowed to post fares that way.

• Airlines may be able to  lower the  commissions they pay by paying commissions only on the "fare" portion of the total cost to the passenger.  

• Airlines  may be doing this so they can raise the true fares on routes where fare increases still need some sort of outside approval— if this is true it may be a legitimate reason.

It is fortunate that  the U.S. government won't let airlines feature fares that exclude fuel surcharges; the only way to find them is to click on separate "explanation" boxes.  But some third-party sites—still post fares that exclude the surcharge.

Personally I think these surcharges are a scam simple as that.  A scam that those of us who accumulate  frequent flier mileage on business trips so that we can take our families on vacations for reasonable prices need to be aware of.   You can get ripped off in particular if you transfer points to use on a foreign carrier who has such charges.   

If you try to get around a carrier's bogus upcharge on their frequent flier tickets by trying to buy  tickets through them on one of their partner airlines, they will still charge you the outrageous surcharge.  Why would they charge a fuel surcharge on another carrier?   Could it be because in fact what is really happening is they are not giving you an equal deal for your points.  While they are advertising that you can buy a ticket to Europe on their airline with say 60,000 frequent flier points (this is the typical amount charged for airlines like American, Iberia who do not charge a fuel surcharge), they are in fact charging you the points plus $400 or more some dollars not including the typical taxes ( other airlines do, of course, charge taxes on such tickets).   This means that your points have been depreciated some 50% on a typical $800 ticket versus what you would have paid on an airline that does not have the surcharge.   Sure somewhere in the fine print they tell you all this.  Nonetheless,  I find it hard to believe that some of these companies have reduced themselves to participate in such obviously deceptive practices, but it appears they do, and as the old adage taunts -- let the buyer beware.   

How some Jack Daniels and Ducks Made a Hotel Famous -- The Peabody Ducks

About 80 years ago, the then General Manager of The Peabody in Memphis, Tennessee, and a friend, had just returned from a hunting trip.  They had a little too much Jack Daniel's, and thought it would be funny to place some of their live duck decoys  in the foutain of the Peabody. Three small ducks were selected and the rest was history.

Then in 1940, Bellman Edward Pembroke, a former circus animal trainer, began guiding  the ducks to the fountain each day and taught them the now-famous Peabody Duck March.  Mr. Pembroke became the Peabody Duckmaster and served in that capacity for 50 years until his retirement in 1991.

The Peabody ducks have been a long-time attraction -- drawing visitors to the Memphis hotel.

And since opening  in 1986, The Peabody Orlando has continued,  the tradition of The Peabody Ducks  March.  Each morning, promptly at 11 a.m., the Duckmaster of the Peabody Orlando leads the ducks usually with a young helper down a special elevator, and they march towards the fountain and up a red carpeted staircase.

On a recent morning, as guests at the Orlando Peabody, we watched the Duckmaster lay the red carpet and waited as other hotel guests gathered near the spectacular marble fountain for the daily ritual.  Sure enough, on cue, the Duckmaster and helper led the mallards down the red carpet and into the fountain where a sumptuous meal was waiting for them in the pool.    It's an event to see -- at least once.   

A Place in Another Time and Space -- A Night in a Real Castle -- The Schloss Bensberg overlooking Cologne, Germany

During our stay in Germany I wanted to spend one night in a real castle.  Not one of those cold and drafty kind -- a castle that had been brought up to date so that you really could feel like royalty.   Possibly you should save such experiences for mid-trip, but I knew we would be arriving fairly early in Dusseldorf  and would be very tired from the over night flight, so having a comfortable place to stay even if we could not immediately check in was paramount.

Schloss Bensberg in Bergishch Gladbach is a baroque structure that looms over Bensberg and Cologne pronouncing its importance to the surrounding region.  It was built for a prince who never got to live there.  Versailles and Windsor Castle served as models for Prince-Elector Johann Wilhem II (Jan Wellem) in building his private retreat on a hillside with magnificent views of Cologne with the help of the Italian architect count Matteo d'Alberti over 300 years ago (between 1700-1716).  When Wellem died in 1716, his widow left the building unfinished.  Over the years it was used as a military hospital, boarding school and refugee camp  ultimately falling into disrepair until in 1997, an insurance company financed a magnificent renovation to turn Schloss Bensberg into a modern day Versailles for guests from around the world.



From the winding streets below, we first caught sight of the castle, overlooking the town and city below. The white and silver structure glistened in the early rays of the sun as we rolled our rental car through the imposing gate and up the paved driveway past stone entry buildings, a regiment of carefully aligned trees, gardens burning with color and a verdant lawn that ran straight up to the colonnade at the front of the castle.   With its multiple turrets, endless rows of huge ornate windows and elaborate entrance, the castle in front of us was much grander than any picture could have led us to expect.

We were dead tired on arrival and therefore overwhelmed with gratefulness when we were quickly ushered into the elegant lobby with our car and luggage whisked away with silent grace.   More thrilled was I when the receptionist promised to have our room ready as soon as possible, and in the mean time thought we might like some breakfast and guided us through the hotel under arched white ceilings, past gorgeous marble and plaster statuary, huge paintings, salons with Renaissance-style murals and other signals that we were indeed in a palatial space.

The breakfast buffet heaped with smoked meat and fish selections, eggs, a wide variety of local and imported cheese, breakfast meats, pastries, fruit and more flowed into the corridor in front of a high-ceiling dining room with additional buffet items, breads, teas and coffee.  We were led to a window table overlooking the grand courtyard and lawn below and promptly served coffee in delicate white cups over white linen.   Ahh!

After a relaxing hour or so, we were escorted to our room overlooking the Castle lawn, the small town with its grand church and in the distance below Cologne and the spires of its magnificent Cathedral.  Cologne was only a short car ride away -- about 20 minutes or so, easy to visit from the Schloss.   After a rest we did a quick tour of Cologne and came back to the Schoss for dinner.    

Vendome, the 3-star chef Joachim Wissler's Restauant,  was fully reserved and I hadn't booked in advance.  I had thought when booking the trip that as we would be overtired from the overnight flight, our first night in Germany might not be the best choice for a splurge dinner.  Especially one that might involve up to six hours and many, many courses (Check out Andy Hayler's review)  Nonetheless, we did peak in the dining room and roam through the beautiful gardens in front the restaurant, which is situated in a stone building on the grounds of the Schloss.

The meal we did have at the Italian restaurant, Trattoria Enoteca, while not a Michelin Three Star like Vendome, was spectacular in its own right.  Following an argula and dandelion salad topped with pine nuts and Parmiggiano Reggiano, I chose the fried sturgeon with a lemon caper sauce arranged on a plate with aspargus and tiny potatoes.  I saw wonderful pasta dishes float by as well as desserts and cheese plates.  If this was second choice for a restaurant at the Castle, I can only imagine how extraterrestrial Vendome is.

Schloss Bensberg also has a world-class spa known for its lighted ceilings (it was closed the day we were there unfortunately), a cozy lobby bar and elegant, club-style bar, but, moreover, staying here is experential -- a night out of time and place -- in an historic yet comfortably modern space that gives you that feeling of specialness that you want to get at least once in awhile in your travels. 

St Nicholas Church in Bensberg

Resources: 

Germany (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

Lonely Planet Germany (Country Travel Guide)

Rick Steves' Germany 2011 with map

Frommer's Germany 2011 (Frommer's Complete Guides)

Disney For Grown Ups -- Food and Wine Festival Comes to Epcot September 30

We recently returned from a visit to the Magic Kingdom plus with child in tow... and, sorry for the overuse, but it was magical!  While there I was reminded as we dashed in and out of Epcot to do Soarin, the Triple AAA attraction which takes you on a virtual flight over the USA, that Disney World is fun for adults too.  And next month I can use the excuse of an adult experience -- the upcoming food and wine festival --to do an adult thing and sneak about and have some kid fun as well.

The Food and Wine Festival, which starts September 30,  is a 45-day Disneyesque experience that  gives "guests" a taste of a wide variety of international cuisine, culture and entertainment from six continents, with more than 25 international marketplaces featuring tapas-sized portions of dishes paired with beer, wine and cocktails.

The Marketplaces are positioned around the 40-acre Epcot World Showcase Lagoon. This year, they include the festival’s first Hawaii marketplace, which will cook up Kalua pork sliders and tuna poke with seaweed salad and lotus root chips to team with a refreshing Seven Tiki Mai Tai or a Kona Longboard or Pipeline beer.  A new Caribbean Islands marketplace will serve ropa vieja with rice and jerk-spiced chicken with mango salsa. A beverage menu featuring a frozen Dragon Berry Colada and frozen Rock Coconut Mojito is sure to conjure steel-drum fantasies.

Another  new addition is the Portugal marketplace, where the Portugal Wine Bar will offer best sips to pair with calamari salad with olives and smoked paprika. The Scandinavia marketplace will return after a hiatus with a fresh new Xante Sunshine cocktail made from Xante pear and cognac liquer. And the Canada marketplace will introduce a sweet treat: apple ice wine.

The festival will also feature:

• Celebrity chef appearances starring top culinarians like Jeff Henderson, Cat Cora, Alan Wong, Gale Gand, Suvir Saran, Jamie Deen, Rock Harper, Celina Tio, Robert Irvine, Andrew Zimmern, Buddy Valastro, Warren Brown, Art Smith, Keegan Gerhard and more.


• First-ever HGTV home entertaining seminars each Friday, Saturday and Sunday.


• The Cranberry Bog display by Craisins telling the story behind the venerable cranberry’s rich agricultural heritage.


• Daily wine seminars, bottle signings, author events and culinary demonstrations at the Festival Welcome Center.


• Eat to the Beat! concerts three times nightly at America Gardens Theatre.


• Plus, many other special events

I am thinking when I go in early October I might just want another spin on Soarin again....but perhaps I ought to do that before the tasting begins for many reasons.  

Resources:

150th Civil War Commemorations Expected to Spark Tourism for the more than 350 Sites Impacted by America's Bloodiest War

The war which touched hundreds of American towns, consisted of more than 50 major battles and 5000 minor ones, saw over 700,000 people killed (360,000 Union soldiers, 260,000 Confederate soldiers, and as many as 100,000 civilians died) with just about every family experiencing personal tragedy (death, disability, homes destroyed) started on April 12 100 years ago -- the American Civil War.

And starting this week, the many towns across the country whose histories were touched, molded, or greatly altered by the war are initiating events to commemorate this war that has continued to fascinate and engage generations long since the first and last gunshots were fired.

As a sampling:

In Charleston, S.C., on April 12, mortar fire will once again light up the skies above Fort Sumter. In Manassas, Va., as many as 10,000 re-enactors will don uniforms of blue and gray to re-create the major battle there. Near Cape Hatteras lighthouse on North Carolina's Outer Banks, uniformed troops will replicate an amphibious assault. Monmouth County, New Jersey sounds the bugle on two dozen "edutainment" programs this week. In Pennsylvania "The Invasion of Pennsylvania" will begin in Greencastle, Pa. and Chambersburg will burn again on the weekend of April 15-16. (List of events in and around Gettysburg)

This week and throughout the next four years, travel to the more than 300 places where small and large battles occurred will be more compelling than ever.  The tourism industry around these sites has been gearing up with programs, reenactments and more, and awaits the influx of visitors to start now.

Among World's Oldest Travelers -- The Sandhill Cranes and their over 2-Millionth Stopover in Nebraska

The sky is suddenly blanketed with a massive cloud of flapping prehistoric-looking wings.   Eerie ghostly sounds echo across the Platte river as an ancient song formed by the almost in unison trills of an enormous avian choir is heard once more.

Heralding the beginning of Spring on the Nebraska prairie, channelling into the age-old 50-mile stretch of the Platte River Valley, the same valley that pioneers clung to on their long journey west, over a half-million sandhill cranes home in on their ancestral roosts.   It's an annual event that draws bird watchers and other tourists to the Nebraska towns of Kearney and Grand Island, which bracket the nesting grounds of these birds that have been arriving here for over 2 million years.

For the cranes it's a pit stop on the journey north to their breeding grounds.   They stop here for the safety and access to food and water that the sand bars of the Platte and the harvested Nebraska corn fields provide.  Every sunrise during their late February to early April stay along the Platte, they ride the thermals in groups seeking grounds to feed.  Then in a frenzy they gorge themselves until dusk when they fill the sky once more heading  back to the river. (During the day, tourists drive the back roads near the Platte observing this natural wonder.)

In addition to tourists, the cranes bear up with the arbitrary Nebraska March weather and its struggle between Winter and Spring, a warm 60 degrees one day, a plunge  into the 20s the next.  They blend into  the warm yellow and  brown corn husks one day, only to be blanketed in snow the next.

Alarmed by sightseers and photographers, the leader bird will rise up tall both protesting the intrusion and alerting his followers to ready for flight.

Along the byways near the Platte, the cranes can be observed often in pairs,  usually mating for life, and not pairing again unless an initial choice is lost.

While you can watch these magnificent birds in the corn fields and see them in the air, the best viewing is at the sanctuaries along the Platte.   The Rowe Sanctuary near Kearney provides tours and opportunities for sleepovers in blinds.  Another popular viewing area is at Alda Bridge Crane Viewing Site southwest of Grand Island.  More information on viewing and etiquette for watching the sandhills can be found at Nebraska Travels.

The sandhill's  stay in Nebraska each year is brief and startlingly beautiful, one I feel privileged to have witnessed before their flight onward on a journey that takes them to their breeding grounds in Canada and the Artic.