Our trip to Lake Orta, a mystical journal to one of the sub-Alpine Italy lake districts, is, like many travel stories one best told in flickering images:
A dog sitting on the ancient stone floor of a shop. An island floating in the middle of the lake lit up like the flickering candles on a cake in the mist. Strains of an opera and soft tolling of church bells. Views down an ancient medieval passageway. Glimpses of a flower decked garden descending to the lake. A tiny 16th century church oratory built to honor deliverance from the Black Death. Narrow streets with ancient arches and tower homes. And always the Island from the shore, from the water always beckoning you like Bali Hai. And ultimately the voyage to and around that silent, sacred and enchanting place.
Images haunt forever and draw you back to this special place --
Arriving at the upper town of Orta San Giulio, I was reminded of many resorts in the mountains in the states. It was only when we descended on the circuiteous road to the San Rocco Hotel that historic Orta San Giulio began to reveal itself. The lobby and most of the hotel was formerly an 18th century convent, but our room was in the more modern, and recently renovated Villa Giseppi section of the hotel, which provided an extremely comfortable accommodation within this stunning historical setting.Surprisingly untrodden for a destination within reasonably easy reach from Milan Airport, once the daytrippers who arrive early in the morning depart, Orta becomes amazingly quiet and serene -- at least it did in late August when we visited. While one of the best kept secrets among the northern lakeside resorts, it's cobbled streets have been walked by many famous travelers, including Honore de Balzac, Friedrich Nietzsche and Robert Browning, the later who described it as "Alp meets heaven.."
Truly a place to wander with it's traffic free center, you can easily get lost in time as you meander Orta San Giulio's streets and courtyards past 16th and 17th century frescoed buildings that now house unusual shops, gelaterias, and restaurants. We stopped to buy soaps from an ex-pat American lady who ran a shop on the Piazza, then spoke with the proprietor of a pasticceria and bought souveners at another shop tucked away in a charming courtyard. At the waterfront off the Piazza we watched as a bride posed for pictures with a backdrop of the Isola San Giulio.
From the waterfront, taxis whiz back and forth from Isola San Giulio with it's ancient basilica, on the site of a primative church founded by St. Julius in the 4th century ( the saint apparently chased snakes from the Island, sounds like the St. Patrick legend--no). Arriving on this isolated piece of land, you are immediately engulfed by its tranquility and sacredness. Meditative signs dot the short, silent walkway around the perimeter of the island blurting walden-like messages..."Every Journey Begins Near to You," "When You are Aware the Journey is Over".. (I think the author had the traveler in mind.) The steps to the the Basilica of St. Julius, which has been modified over the course of centuries, steer you to the church as soon as you disembark from the launch. As are many of the ancient churches of Italy, it is extraordinary and definitely worth exploring. We stopped for a coffee at a bar/restaurant-- Ristorante San Giulio. While the formal dining room looked inviting, we decided to return later and descend the steps to the terrace restaurant which juts into the Lake. Another one of those amazing places where we frittered away several hours watching the boats parade back and forth and the people come and go while enjoying the tourist meal -- 3 courses for 16 euros.
Our time at Lake Orta was too short. As I reflect on our visit there , I can easily see why it has been referred to as a "star in a galaxy of sub-alpine lakes." Orta quietly entraps you --- drawing you back to visit again and again.
There is a Lake Orta Tweep www.twitter.com/LakeOrta but not many tweets yet.
Also be sure to pick up the marvelous little booklet published by the Associaione Turistica Pro Loco Orta S. Giulio at via Bossi 11 in Orta S. Giulio. (Christmas on the Lake looks lovely with a parade of Christmas trees, lights and decorations.) Information in English can also be found at www.orta.net.
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