During our stay in Germany I wanted to spend one night in a real castle. Not one of those cold and drafty kind -- a castle that had been brought up to date so that you really could feel like royalty. Possibly you should save such experiences for mid-trip, but I knew we would be arriving fairly early in Dusseldorf and would be very tired from the over night flight, so having a comfortable place to stay even if we could not immediately check in was paramount.
Schloss Bensberg in Bergishch Gladbach is a baroque structure that looms over Bensberg and Cologne pronouncing its importance to the surrounding region. It was built for a prince who never got to live there. Versailles and Windsor Castle served as models for Prince-Elector Johann Wilhem II (Jan Wellem) in building his private retreat on a hillside with magnificent views of Cologne with the help of the Italian architect count Matteo d'Alberti over 300 years ago (between 1700-1716). When Wellem died in 1716, his widow left the building unfinished. Over the years it was used as a military hospital, boarding school and refugee camp ultimately falling into disrepair until in 1997, an insurance company financed a magnificent renovation to turn Schloss Bensberg into a modern day Versailles for guests from around the world.
From the winding streets below, we first caught sight of the castle, overlooking the town and city below. The white and silver structure glistened in the early rays of the sun as we rolled our rental car through the imposing gate and up the paved driveway past stone entry buildings, a regiment of carefully aligned trees, gardens burning with color and a verdant lawn that ran straight up to the colonnade at the front of the castle. With its multiple turrets, endless rows of huge ornate windows and elaborate entrance, the castle in front of us was much grander than any picture could have led us to expect.
We were dead tired on arrival and therefore overwhelmed with gratefulness when we were quickly ushered into the elegant lobby with our car and luggage whisked away with silent grace. More thrilled was I when the receptionist promised to have our room ready as soon as possible, and in the mean time thought we might like some breakfast and guided us through the hotel under arched white ceilings, past gorgeous marble and plaster statuary, huge paintings, salons with Renaissance-style murals and other signals that we were indeed in a palatial space.
The breakfast buffet heaped with smoked meat and fish selections, eggs, a wide variety of local and imported cheese, breakfast meats, pastries, fruit and more flowed into the corridor in front of a high-ceiling dining room with additional buffet items, breads, teas and coffee. We were led to a window table overlooking the grand courtyard and lawn below and promptly served coffee in delicate white cups over white linen. Ahh!
After a relaxing hour or so, we were escorted to our room overlooking the Castle lawn, the small town with its grand church and in the distance below Cologne and the spires of its magnificent Cathedral. Cologne was only a short car ride away -- about 20 minutes or so, easy to visit from the Schloss. After a rest we did a quick tour of Cologne and came back to the Schoss for dinner.
Vendome, the 3-star chef Joachim Wissler's Restauant, was fully reserved and I hadn't booked in advance. I had thought when booking the trip that as we would be overtired from the overnight flight, our first night in Germany might not be the best choice for a splurge dinner. Especially one that might involve up to six hours and many, many courses (Check out Andy Hayler's review) Nonetheless, we did peak in the dining room and roam through the beautiful gardens in front the restaurant, which is situated in a stone building on the grounds of the Schloss.
The meal we did have at the Italian restaurant, Trattoria Enoteca, while not a Michelin Three Star like Vendome, was spectacular in its own right. Following an argula and dandelion salad topped with pine nuts and Parmiggiano Reggiano, I chose the fried sturgeon with a lemon caper sauce arranged on a plate with aspargus and tiny potatoes. I saw wonderful pasta dishes float by as well as desserts and cheese plates. If this was second choice for a restaurant at the Castle, I can only imagine how extraterrestrial Vendome is.
Schloss Bensberg also has a world-class spa known for its lighted ceilings (it was closed the day we were there unfortunately), a cozy lobby bar and elegant, club-style bar, but, moreover, staying here is experential -- a night out of time and place -- in an historic yet comfortably modern space that gives you that feeling of specialness that you want to get at least once in awhile in your travels.
St Nicholas Church in Bensberg
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