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Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Savoring the Beaune Market -- A Gastronomic Paradise


There is no doubt when I breeze through the many photos that I took while in France recently that "food" was definitely one of the major themes of my trip. And no wonder. Not only does the food in France taste better than in the U.S., and I truly believe it does, it looks so alluring. Whether it's the richness of colors and texture, the presentation or arrangement in a food stand or on a plate or just the food itself, the food in France is as dazzling to the eyes as it is to the tastebuds.

Perhaps this is why the French Market is such a attraction for tourists, even if timing doesn't permit a single purchase. While in recent years local markets are becoming more omnipresent in the US, the French market is still unique.  Americans see shopping at a local market as more of a novelty, the French (at least in the smaller towns) rely more on the markets for the weekly produce despite the growing presence of the supermarche. And the Beaune  market is a gem... with stand after stand of cheeses, sausages, fruits, vegetables, crafts, clothes and more.


We went in the rain.. a pleasant soft rain which helped carry the wonderful smells of roasting chicken, cheeses, and flowers. The stalls melded together through the shower in an impressionistic blur of color.

It was Saturday, Beaune's main market day. Visitors come from all around to taste and see the harvests of local farms, local aromatic Burgundian cheeses, tantalizing dried sausage, sweet freshly-picked lopes, and, of course, breads, wonderful, wonderful breads. The market on this rainy day bounced with umbrellas. And I suspect it was less congested than on a sunnier morning. However, we started our venture through the long winding cavalcade of delights under cover in the indoor part of the market -- the Halles.


Most French towns and large villages have a stationary covered market (marche couvert) frequently called "les Halles." The Halles in Beaune houses mostly the fresh meat, cheese, eggs..but some candies and fruits as well.


From here, you wander down a main artery of Beaune toward's the town's primary tourist attraction, the Hospices de Beaune, the medieval building which housed a hospital for the poor. (Definitely worth a visit while in Beaune.) Vendors anxious for you to notice and perhaps buy their wares offer tastes of incredible cheeses, fruits and other savories as you meander past their stalls.

It only takes a few visits to these traditional local markets with their abundance of fresh, local meats and produce to appreciate the heritage of this slower way of life. It also explains in many ways why food is France is so darn good.

The Clock at Musee D’Orsay