Lunch with a View -- Visiting the Cipriani Hotel

Directly across the water from the Piazza San Marco in Venice on Isola della Giudecca, the Cipriani sits in its all its contrapuntal splendor of old and new. Contemporary amenities, including spa, red-clay tennis court, outdoor heated pool and modern accommodations have been seamlessly integrated into the remnants of a 16th century cloister. Reading the reviews of the hotel from recent visitors provide a schizophrenic picture...




Some complaint about the price, of course, in today's value conscious world, some have issues with a few rooms needing remodeling, but, then there are the raves about the service, the peace and tranquility, and, of course, the views. We didn't stay the night, but the afternoon was lovely, though expensive. Worth it, yes. But I went particularly to see the view and to experience the world the owner of Harry's Bar was trying to create...an oasis of peace and privacy within minutes and site of perhaps the most famous, photographed and beloved squares in one of the most beautiful cities in the world.


I never tire of arriving anywhere by boat, it always seems special. But arriving on an island in the Hotel Cipriani's launch is more than special, it is to enter for a moment the world of the privledged. It is also to enter the place that Harry created....and remarkably just as he envisioned, the first thing that is evident especially after leaving the hustle and bustle of St. Mark's Square is the quiet serernity.





After a morning of museums and shopping in Venice, wandering through Cipriani's garden and along the waterfront near the hotel was indescribably pleasant. And sipping prosecco on the flower-adorned terrace of the Cipriani's lovely restaurant, sheer bliss.

Arrived Milan, Luggage Did Not.. The Joys of Flying

Our journey begins--three weeks in Italy. After being deposited at the airport in Florida Monday night expecting to take a short flight to Atlanta at around 5 for our 10:55 overnight to Paris with a connection to Milan, we learned that our Florida connection had been delayed until 7:30 making it practically impossible to catch the Paris flight. Or so we and the Delta counter representative thought, which resulted in our being booked on another flight the following day at 10 p.m. direct to Milan, meaning a night and day in Atlanta. A day shot.

We took the bumpy commuter ride to Atlanta arriving, of course, with enough time to race to the gate of the Paris flight...only to see the plane sitting at the gate and to be told that the flight was closed. But magically we learn there is another flight to Paris in a half hour leaving from the same terminal we are in. We are assured by the agent who rebooks us on this new flight that our bags have been moved as well, they will arrive in Milan with us. This we confirmed several times. Why I wonder didn't the agent in Florida know about this flight? Well, we find out that this flight was actually for passengers who after waiting on a plane on the tarmac for nearly three hours had been transferred to this other plane now scheduled to leave at 11:30 -- ala this mystery flight to Paris. We're ultimately shuttled onto the plane with a contingency of unhappy, tired travelers bound for Paris. And then finally at around midnight the mystery flight takes off.

Arriving in Paris, after a night of half sleep on a plane, again we rush through Charles De Gaulle, which could be in addition to the recognized world's worst, the most confusing airport in the world. The path to the connecting flight took us up and down escalators several times through corridors here and yon, past phenomenal looking cafes where travelers were drinking wine and eating scrumptious looking baguette sandwiches under the light of adorable petite lamps that only the French would think to put on a countertop in an airport diner. We reach the embarkment place and are herded with around one hundred others onto a very hot bus, taking us out to the tarmac to our plane bound for Milan.

All is forgiven and forgotten. The plane trip from Paris to Milan on Air France was spectacular. First, the seats are comfortable and the flight is only half full so we are able to move away from two kids who are kicking the back of our seats. Secondly, shortly into the flight, a petite, tantalizing tray of luscious bites of food arrived including a small wrap, a dollup of creamy crab stuff, a slice of cheese, crackers and two petit fours -- sure beats a choice of peanuts or cheese crackers. Third, and best of all, the French and Italian flight crew were incredibly friendly asking us about our trip, making suggestions. And then about 40 minutes outside of Milan we crossed the most breathtaking vistas --- the Alps peered out of the clouds in their steel majesty, and we could see snow-covered mountains with pristine, icy-turqoise lakes and streams. As we descended into Milan, Lake Maggiore was visible dotted with its lakeside resorts and punctuated by boats skirting across its waters.

We look at each other as we walk from the plane in Milan and simultaneously say, "Well, we're here." And congratulate ourselves because despite the setbacks we had gotten to Milan on time as planned.

We had arrived. Our luggage had not.. Unfortunately, it was supposedly in Atlanta waiting for the flight the next day direct to Milan--the one that we had orignally been rebooked on when our flight from Florida had been delayed. The one we had been assured in Atlanta that it was not on. Explitive!

Well as we we sat sharing a glass of chianti and a marvelous meal on a patio overlooking the Italian countryside that evening (and this was at a contemporary airport hotel), it didn't seem to matter. We were in Italy afterall. And as a wise woman once said "Tommorrow is another day."

Revisiting Virtually -- A New York State of Mind

It is Sunday in New York City and we've  just moved into the Parker Meridien Hotel for our annual stay in "the city."  We're tired and hungry....and I want breakfast.  Of course, Norma's is there, the most fabulous breakfast place ever, with their wonderful oatmeal mixed with apples and pears topped off by a crunchy carmelized brulee or their to-die-for banana macadamia nut pancakes or take a look at the menu yourself.   But I realize there are many other options..I'm in New York after all.  There are the deli's on each of the nearby corners that serve up solidly good standard fare at close-to reasonable prices, but there is also Seppis, the charmingly French bistro with a Swiss chef, directly connected to the Meridien through a door by reception.  

And I am tired, so Seppis it is.  Sitting at the bar , I read my Times, and order an omelet with cheese and spinach -- not on the brunch menu, but it's what I want and they make it with pomme frites ( I can't call them French Fries -- they are just too good to be called French Fries -- thin delicate potato slivers,  gently fried and salted, no grease -- perfect.)  The room is pleasantly tan and beige with interesting period posters, mirrors and prints covering most of the wall space.  The jazz piano player starts tapping on the keys signaling the start of brunch. Seppis serves a delectable brunch, with many of the dishes as the chef explains in the restaurant's YouTube interview  oh so slightly hinting of chocolate, and with a full chocolate-lovers buffet table to boot.  But I just want to savor my omelet and sip my wine, and listen to the refrains of the jazz group now playing "I'll remember you." 

Yes, I will remember you...this New York moment.  For years I lived and worked here, then visited often, now too infrequently.  But I realize that living in a virtual age has made New York a keystroke away.  Within seconds I'm zooming in front of the Parker Meridian on Google Earth, walking down 56th Street, and spotting the deli I ruled out in favor of Seppis.  Viewing the rooms at the Meredian website, I recall  the exquisite functionality of the hotel - and as described there the "traditionally French, but decidedly New York" style, expressed so well in the glib writing, e.g.,  "Hi-speed internet: what do you think?"

If I choose I can browse over to the MOMA and check out favorite paintings or move over to Carnegie Hall and listen to bits of music as I peruse upcoming concerts.  On YouTube alone there are almost 400,000 video pieces  covering  some part of the city, 40,000 covering Central Park .  Then, of course, through TripAdvisor, Virtual Tourist, Trazzler, and many more travel sites I can read, view pictures and vicariously experience New York through the words, pictures, and videos of thousands of visitors and people who live there.  Not to mention, the bloggers...and tweeps who can be questioned to help retrieve a memory of a restaurant, attraction or other experience.  

I wonder though had I not smelt Nathan's  hot dogs and the other rich aromas of the City, not tasted the food and taken in the atmosphere of  New York restaurants and deli's, not brushed  up against New Yorkers rushing up Broadway or onto subways, not heard the blaring sound of taxi horns, not seen with my own eyes Central Park from a New York skyscraper, not watched Ice-skaters  nor the Today Show Live at Rockefeller Center, not mingled with crowds of people hustling into theatres would I be able to so clearly go to New York in my mind.  I don't think so.   Traveling can't be replaced virtually.   But what virtual  traveling  can do is amplify the  anticipation and memory  of a real experience. ...and oh, am I so very grateful for that.

Venice's International Art Biennale --70 Countries showcase the best in Contemporary Art -- on view through November 2009

While Venice's is typically associated with the Art of the Renaissance, it is a contemporary art exhibition that every other year draws artists from over 70 countries from all over the world.  When the first Venice Biennale Art Festival was held in 1895 the decorative arts were the centerpiece of the event. Through the years, the festival became more and more international and from 1907 on, several countries began installing national pavilions.   After World War I, the Biennale gradually changed its focus to modern art. Many well-known modern artists had their work exhibited there between the wars.

In the 1930s, under Facist leadership, several new sections of the event were established: the Music Festival in 1930, the now more famous  International Film Festival in 1932, and the Theatre Festival in 1934.  

After a six-year hiatus during  the Biennale was resumed in 1948 with renewed attention to avant-garde movements , contemporary art was introduced in the 1950s, pop art in the 1960s.   Currently contempory art is the focus of the Biennale.  

For some excellent illustrations of the art being exhibited see the Boston Globe's piece on the event. 

The exhibition, which opened on June 7, continues through November, 2009.  Ticket and venue information can be found on the Biennale's website. 

Favorite Place Travel Tweets of the Week

Here are our favorite tweets about places (we only choose those with links to a travel blog or article) for the week ending August 1.  

Place Visited: Russia

Take a train ride back to the 19th century Russia -l Theroux travels by train from Moscow ... The Guardian http://ow.ly/iNSd

Place Visited: Outer Banks, North Carolina, USA

RT @SimpleTourism: Best Bets for August in the Outer Banks: During the height of the summer season  http://bit.ly/3VwIK #travel

Place Visited: London, England, UK

A Personal Experience for students going abroad. A semester in London - The Boston Globe http://ow.ly/iRbz

RT @janelasky: Sherlock Holmes stars Jude Law Robert Downey Jr. take over 1 of London's oldest churches http://bit.ly/vFpSD

48 hours in Bath .. England that is #Travel - Independent.ie http://ow.ly/iNX6

Place Visited: Camogli, Italy (Italian Riviera)

Nice article on towns along the Italian coast S. of Genoa- Hiking along the Mediterranean Coast: Camogli http://ow.ly/iDXo #italy